As you step down into the awaiting dhow, the clocks seem to wind backwards and you enter into a world where time seemingly stopped more than a century ago: Lamu. The wind slowly fills the vast sail and you are transported back in time where thoughts of work, telephones and computers are meaningless, and thus you embark on a holiday without equal.

Lamu is a small island on the Kenyan coast that historically served as a teaching centre for the Islamic religion and a trading hub for spices and ivory. For over two thousand years, wealthy Arab merchants impacted heavily on the local culture and architecture before abandoning Lamu for Zanzibar and other trade-rich islands. Today, it is an unparalleled mixture of African and Arabic culture, which seems to have survived intact, making the island a unique living museum.

The island boasts one motorcar, owned by the District Commissioner, and transport is either by boat, foot or donkey. The streets of Lamu town are narrow and meandering, surrounded on either side by the tall, interconnected, ancient Swahili structures built by the Arab merchants of long ago that now serve as the homes of Lamu?s resident population. Some of these buildings are still very much occupied and lived in despite appearing to be in a crumbling and almost utterly deteriorated state. The new and the old co-exist side by side.

Although the island has slowly allowed some of the vestiges of the modern world to seep in, it has only really been in little more than the last decade that the island has been rediscovered and become a premiere tourist destination. It boasts some of the most expensive real estate prices in Kenya. Backpackers, boaters and those in search of unspoiled locations long ago discovered the secret of Lamu and are now finding it difficult to share their once private haven with the international up-market tourists who are now infiltrating the town and the miles of unspoiled sandy beaches.

The waterfront is the hub of activity for the coastal community of Lamu, whose economy is now largely dependent on tourism and marine industries. The main road, Harambee Avenue, runs from Lamu town all the way to the village of Shela: an easy 30-minute hike when the tide is low. Along the avenue are a myriad of shops, stalls, restaurants and maritime industries. The heat is blistering and by mid-day the smells and sounds can be overpowering. It becomes clear why most things slow to a stop in the afternoon, as the town?s 20,000 permanent residents take a well-needed siesta.

In the past, most visitors to Lamu Island stayed either in Shela or Kipungani as accommodation of international standards was more readily available than in Lamu town. Lamu town only had basic accommodation available, more suited to the back packing crowd or tourists travelling on a limited budget - interested in the location rather than the accommodation.

All of this has changed with the recent opening of Baytil Ajaib, a beautifully restored Swahili house located in the heart of Lamu town. It took the owner, Paul Weaver, an American from Michigan, eleven years of research and painstaking work to complete the project. Paul has made the island his home since he and his business partner, Norbert Herget, purchased the 18th century palatial townhouse more than a decade ago.

This engaging and dynamic individual is an absolutely delightful and charming, if not somewhat offbeat, host. On settling in Lamu, Paul converted to the Islamic religion and changed his name to Abdul Malik Bilali or Malik, as he is more commonly known. He is now a prominent figure in the local religious community, and his conversation is full of tales from his international travels interspersed with allusions to the Koran. He has an absolute passion for Lamu and its people and is a well-known character around town conducting his daily business dressed in the traditional flowing kanzu robes.

Malik doesn?t undertake anything lightly and the restoration of the townhouse was no exception. In order to remain true to the original Swahili style, he spent a considerable amount of time studying the architecture and materials used in constructing traditional stone houses ? five types of lime-coral stone, including snail shell - before embarking on this project. The result is a stunning townhouse impeccably restored to its previous splendour, sub-divided into five unique and private apartments.

The mixture of materials used in construction and the architecture provide the house with natural air conditioning, so that the tropical heat of the day never infiltrates the house, which is always cool. Steps lead into the airy, open courtyard (a common feature of Swahili-styled homes) and are angled slightly downward, acting as a natural runoff for rainwater.

Frangipani flowers float in traditional pools of cool water, scenting both the water and the air. Secret alcoves, balconies and terraces provide rooftop views of Lamu town and the Lamu archipelago. The rooms are all decorated with authentic Swahili furniture and a mixture of African and Western art and artefacts collected during Malik?s travels. Collectively, the result is a visual and sensory journey back in time.

For those who want far more than just a beach holiday, Baytil Ajaib in Lamu town offers the chance to turn back the hands of time and experience life as it was at the turn of the century.