At the end of every holiday there is always that inevitable feeling of anti–climax, the inexorable desire not ever to go back to work. However, it is rare indeed for one to actually sit at the dinner table and count the remaining pennies (or shillings, in this case) and weigh up the possibilities of having to push the car the last few metres all in the name of ‘just one more night’. This was the impression Samburu Intrepids made on us.

The journey to the National Reserves of Samburu and Buffalo Springs is relatively straightforward. Once through the smog and chaos of Nairobi’s sprawling suburbs the road up to Nanyuki is a pleasant drive passing the tea plantations of the Kikuyu homeland and culminating in a view (weather permitting) of the majestic Mount Kenya. After a short break to top up with fuel and sodas it is time for the real roads. Just after the relatively smooth Nanyuki roads (the calm before the storm) the potholes begin, we all know those seemingly bottomless axle-breaking drops! In actuality, though, the rough bits are in short sections and are not as bad as they first seem.

The landscape changes towards Isiolo with a harsher rugged look but still beautiful in its own right. After Isiolo is the short drive, about 30kms, along a murram (dirt), corrugated road up to the park boundaries, which incidentally are regularly patrolled by Kenya Wildlife Service rangers and even by the occasional cheery British army vehicle or two. This section is quite rough on the suspension, although one can still maintain a decent speed. Do watch out, however, for the slightly bizarre ‘speed bumps’ on the first part of the road or else you may be opting for unintentional light aircraft lessons. Before you know it, the welcoming ‘Buffalo Springs’ sign appears, like the smell of mum’s cooking on a cold winter’s day… well, you know what I mean! Depending on your vehicle type and driving style the journey time is about four and a half to five hours to the gate and then a further forty-five minutes to the lodge.

Once inside the park the holiday begins. The shingled, corrugated roads through the parks are generally good, but by this point you’re on the look out for a number of animal species quite unique to this park, namely the reticulated giraffe, oryx, Grevy’s zebra, the long necked gerenuk and the Somali ostrich. Following the signs you soon find yourself at the Ngiro River Bridge, the natural border between Samburu and Buffalo Springs reserves. Once in Samburu, it is a short and very pleasant drive west towards Intrepids.

On arrival, after checking that legs could still actually bend, we entered the luxury-tented camp, all set on stilts overlooking the river. All the staff were helpful, pleasantly good-humoured and extremely efficient. Our ‘tent’ was fantastic, with a great view of the river and the environs. Once showered and changed we headed for the most important chakula (food) option. The quality of the food for all three meals on each of our days was fantastic, pleasing to both eye and stomach. We were even greeted by the gregarious chef who made every effort to make us feel welcome and offer us yet more food!

Filling the time between meals was by no means a problem. For anyone over heating there was the swimming pool discreetly tucked out of view and for those preferring the clothed options there were numerous places to just sit back and relax enjoying a cool Tusker and soak in the sounds of the great outdoors. As is the way with such places certain mischievous characters are always on view to entertain. The Vervet monkeys insisted on being the centre of attention and provide onlookers with a series of perfected acrobatic manoeuvres whilst their best friend attempts to sneak up on unsuspecting observers and steal your prized biscuit!
And then there was the game viewing! The range of animal species was most impressive: Bat eared foxes, elephant, giraffe, gazelle, kudu, gerenuk, oryx, lion, wart hog, secretary birds to name but a few. There is also a reasonable chance to spot both leopard along the riverside and cheetah on the open plains. Even on less fortunate drives the park itself encompasses everything one could ever imagine about the African bush: scrubs, thorn trees, hills, trees and dust – it’s fantastic.

Some inclement weather did not even disturb our game viewing. On our second morning we decided to take an early morning drive. After some minutes trying to persuade and bribe each other to get out of the warm bliss that was our bed we soon realised we were not going further than the veranda that morning as it was ‘lashing down’. However, before anyone could get too depressed our despondent gaze was met with the silhouette of a large bull elephant helping himself to a selection of delicate looking branches. For some minutes we watched his royal highness stomp around before he’d had enough and waded across the river for some equally tempting elephant ‘bran flakes’.

Samburu Intrepids and the game park come with our highest recommendation. The location is relaxing, picturesque and romantic, the perfect get away. Booking the lodge is easy. Either direct through Heritage Hotels (off Waiyaki Way at Hillcrest Hotel) or through your local travel agent.

Did we stay for that extra night? Well, actually no. But on our next trip we’ll make sure we’re armed with the extra notes to keep us in paradise for ‘just one more night’…